The first thing we did after arriving, renting a scooter, and checking in was to go check out the Hua Yuan (Flower Garden) Night Market 花園夜市. It’s only open Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Being Thursday night, it was our lucky day. Unfortunately, it was lucky for everyone else who loved this market. I can see why. It’s out in the open, like in a large parking lot and was split between food, shopping, and games. We stuck to the food area like everyone else. The place was packed and you pretty much had to eat standing or walking around. There were places to sit but they were for specific stalls if you ordered from them. There was a good variety of foods, including the local favorite Coffin Toast 棺材板 and Danzai Noodles 擔仔麵. After trying it here, I wasn’t a fan, but thankfully there were other foods we tried, like, grilled conch, pork cutlet, stinky tofu, skewered lamb, and deep fried king mushrooms (my favorite!). Sorry I don’t have the Chinese names for them. I’m too lazy to look them up. But the main good thing about this market was what I mentioned earlier. It was out in the open-open, not cramped into city streets surrounded by buildings. So by the end of your eating frenzy, you’re properly aired out and cleansed of that nasty stuff you just tried out. Now if they could do something about stinky tofu breath!
The next day we went into the Anping District (Old Tainan) 安平區. Highly recommended. Plenty of vendor stalls for your tourist trap needs. I usually avoid them, but I saw a mini Coffin Toast stall which I say is how you should eat the stuff. So let me clarify. I’m not a fan of Coffin Toast, but mini Coffin Toast I do like. The right balance of breading and that potpie filler stuff. Anyways, I hate digressing back into food. That’s what the food section below is for. Back to Anping. You can see the famous fort and stuff but the real fun was getting lost in the neighborhood. Okay, you really can’t get lost, but you want to feel like you are so when you stumble upon a small historical building it’s amazing. You can read all about it’s history on a plaque outside and wonder if the people living around there were just designating themselves as historic. Because I know I would. Still it’s cool to walk through the area. We found old Japanese style houses and small temples.
Our favorite find was Haishan Guan 海山館, a recently renovated building combining old time architecture with cartoon pop flare. I’m not sure what the purpose of the building was for. I think it used to be a hostel, but now it’s a place for people to come play and, I guess, to buy things like I did, some nice little lion-like figurines. The people were great and offered to ship them for me since we were traveling like. My way of “back packing” through Taiwan.
We spent most of the day walking through old town. It’s a shame we didn’t see the other side of town. This will do though. Tainan will be this old town with great little places you can find by scooter. Yeah, it felt pretty safe riding in this town. Not so much by traffic laws, but by safety in numbers. There appears to be a larger number of two wheelers in this town that others. And I have to say, they were nicer. And we were your average, but apparently not annoying, tourist by asking our fellow motorists for directions. Not even an eye roll.
Tainan, I will be back to know you more. You supply the alcohol and I’ll bring my drinking habit.
Don’t really like the lighter/sweeter taste of the Tainan food. There was nothing I tried that a year from now I’ll be craving to have again. The Coffin Toast would be memorable though. It’s a chicken pot pie, with other stuff, and in a better deep fried crust, but still, it’s pot pie. Sorry, I never was a fan of it. The good food was your neighborhood local food. Try out the seafood. They may deep fry most of it but it’s worth the taste.
Safely around by scooter.
Great city. Big, dirty, but warm with character and history. Definitely worth revisiting.
$105NTD by Tze-Chiang train from Taiching to Tainan to (limited express)
$350NTD scooter rental (50cc for a day)
$1650NTD night at a three star hotel
I love the train systems in Taiwan. The run regularly to every major city and this was just the normal railway. There’s the high speed railway which I haven’t tried out yet. Moving from place to place within one or two hours on the Tze-Chiang, limited express, trains were fine for us. I didn’t even go for the tourist railway pass, which is similar to the JR Railway Pass in Japan. The one in Taiwan seemed affordable, but doesn’t allow you to go on the express trains we were taking. People with the pass were allowed to take the trains the stopped at every stop. While a nice way to see the smaller cities of Taiwan, it wasn’t very time effective.
The trains were nice – comfy, with room to stretch your legs and a little raised foot rest. Airlines should take a look into adding these. If you’re hungry, you’re allowed to bring food on and eat. And if you need to do your thing, there are decent rest rooms (with toilets!) and a sink for every car. Not a bad way to travel. Luckily no one brought stinky tofu on board.
We took the train to Taichung. A nice big city that felt like a Taipei minus half the people and fancy new buildings. I read about this nice little tea house, Wu Wei Cao Tang Tea House 無為草堂, from http://mykafkaesquelife.blogspot.com/ and I have to say, it was worth getting to. It’s situated in this commercial area filled with retail shops and modern restaurants. It was a quiet getaway with a labyrinth of wooden stairs and hallways to the various tea rooms overlooking the Koi pond. We had lunch here and looked into what to do in Tainan. I really wanted to stay and check out the night market here, but we were on a tighter schedule. We only stayed around for five hours and it was back on the train.
Definitely good. There are some great specialty shops, like pig’s feet with rice. You’ll find shops everywhere for this. Sounds crazy, but give these fatty and gelatinous things a try. I tried them braised and they were great and filled with dietary guilt.
Try the Suncakes 太阳饼 too. They’re light flaky pastries and be sure to have them with tea.
By cab you’re looking at about $100 – $125NTD per trip from district to district.
Felt like a big city I want to come back to. I didn’t spend too much time here so I definitely want to come back. I hear there’s a night life scene I need to see, but it feels more of a eating and shopping town.
$197NTD by Tze-Chiang train from Hsinchu to Taichung (limited express)
We left a surprisingly dry and cold Taipei back to a rainy and even colder Hsinchu. A great start to our journey around the island of Taiwan. Thankfully, we didn’t bike or even rent a motorcycle. The cold wetness would send us back to Taipei in a hurry. On the other hand, arriving here in this weather meant staying indoors. However, Vicky’s cousin Che was available to pick us up and show us around town. Score! And also, we’ll be staying at his folks place. Bonus!
From the station we headed out to Beipu where Vicky’s grandmother lived.
Along the way we went by a few interesting spots. First being his school, Chinhua University, where Che was graduating with a PhD in Fuel Cell Technology. Interesting fellow. He had just returned from a Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) conference out in France where he had given a presentation. Anyways, he was out tour guide and offered plenty of history around his University. Next was a small stop to a public well of a town with the largest population of twins. People believed it was in the water and visitors were free to siphon water. In our case, there was enough water falling on our heads to warrant a taste. Up the windy road was a nice view of the city reservoir. We had to enjoy it form the interior of our car. Bummer, but soon we were in Beipu.
Beipu was small and had a area catered to tourists. Cobble stone streets crossed in front of the temple aligned with vendors selling foods and souvenirs. Not many were opened obviously, but we found a small tea shop where we tried our hands at Hakka tea. It’s pretty intense and quite involved. You basically grind tea and nuts in a special ridged clay pot to the point you got a thick paste, made possible by the oils in the nuts. After a good 15 minutes of taking turns, we were finally able to add hot water and enjoy our tea. I can see how this could be fun if we had more people. More people to do the dirty work that is.
After saying bye to grandmother we headed back to the city.
For dinner we went to, you guessed it, Chenghuang Temple Night Market. And oh man, it’s small compared to Taipei’s night markets. And I have to say, this one was very disappointing. Bawan was pretty disgusting and the rice noodles that every vendor was selling looked unappetizing. We didn’t eat much. Che didn’t want us to eat-eat there. Instead, he took us a few blocks away to a place that specialized in duck. If you heard of Hainan Chicken, where the chicken is cooked with the rice, well, they do this with duck. And it’s divine. The duck itself was well prepared too. Simply roasted and served in its oily goodness. If you’re a fan of tripe, try the duck version. The texture is thinner and, for a lack of a better term, crisper. This meal made up for all the crap I had been eating.
My thoughts on Hsinchu City…
Good if you stay away from the crap night market food, but I’m sure you can find some gems in there. Wish I had more time to find them.
Can’t say, we were driven everywhere.
There are sections of mom and pop shops but it has a main area for all your trendy shopping needs. No high end stuff though.
$177NTD by Tze-Chiang train from Taipei to Hsinchu (limited express)
Today it poured. I take that back, early morning it poured. The rest of the day wasn’t as wet but with the wind, it made for one uncomfortable day to get around town. The only thing we could do was to stay inside something. And if that something, like a bus, taxi, metro, or even gondola would take us somewhere interesting, then all the better. Of course, we did just that. Final destination, Maokong Station.
What was up there was a slew of tea houses nestled in the farmlands of the local growers. Very pleasant place. I’d tell you the name if I could. It’s in Chinese but I’m sure any tea house here would give you the same experience. Many of them being a five minute walk from the station.
But I have to say, the most memorable thing about today was the eating. Even this tea thing fits into this category. So let me rephrase it, this day was all about eating and drinking. We had local food shops where you can buy a Taiwanese hamburger or a fried chicken box lunch for $90NTD ($3 US Dollars) or splurge and on black chicken soup for $180NTD. Everything we had was good, tasty, and full of new flavors I’m going to remember this city for. Those puffy buns wrapped around braised pork, balanced with pickled veggies that were not overpowering, explained why they were called sandwiches. It’s all about the balance of each ingredient. Then the thinly crispy chicken on top of locally grown covered in an assortment of mixed greens. I’d want to call this a Chinese Bento Box, but this was a class of its own. And finally, we stopped by Shida Night Market for some chicken soup, a hearty mix of herbs that were invisible to eye, but clearly apparent on the palette. My only gripe was that they try to market each meal as being beneficial to an aspect of your health. Bullshit. Nothing this tasty was ever good for you! But I sure hope I’m wrong. Anyways, enjoy some of the food photos, though I could have done a better job taking them. Eating them was a higher priority than picture taking.
The other highlight was that the weather was clearing up. The long five days of rain we were suppose to get was being cut down to two days, with the Western cities seeing sunshine as early as tomorrow. Makes my head spin trying to believe what these weather people said. No matter, our journey was going to start tomorrow.
Hsinchu, here I come!